there are several plants commonly known as amaryllis. usually this name refers to the members of the genus hippeastrum. but there is a “true” amaryllis (amaryllis belladonna), which is also known as belladonna lily. they are all belonging to the amaryllidaceae family.

the approx. 90 hippeastrum species are native to middle and south america. amaryllis belladonna is from south africa. it’s the only member of its genus.

there is a wide range of hippeastrum cultivars available. blooming in nearly every color you want.

this instruction refers to the amaryllis cultivars. the entitlements of the natural forms can be different.

location / lighting

the amaryllis grows best if located bright and sunny the year round. a light shaded place will be tolerated. during summer it can be placed in the garden or on the balcony. to avoid leaf burn, the plant should get some time to adapt full sun. when the temperatures begin to drop permanently below 10 °c/50 °f, they come back to the house. make sure that rainwater can easily run out of the pot.

soil

a regular potting or cactus mix can be used. i’m using a mixture of potting soil, coarse sand and pumice (2:1:1). to avoid rotting, the roots should only be covered with soil until the bulb is half to one third sitting in the substrate.

watering

if in bloom and grow (spring-summer) the amaryllis can be deep watered. what’s flowing out of the pots hole must be removed after a few minutes. sitting in water can cause rott. before adding water next allow to nearly dry.

feeding

a half diluted water soluble fertilizer can be given monthly in spring/summer. new bought or recently repotted plants don’t need to be feeded for the first six to eight weeks.

after bloom

the flower stems can be cut off after it has wilted. do not remove the leaves!

rebloom

there are two ways to bring the amaryllis to bloom again next year again:

the safe method

stop watering and feeding for eight weeks, beginning in september/october. if the foliage has died back it can be cutted off. during this period, the pot can be stored in a cool (approx. 15 °c/59 °f) and dark location.

after that time bringt it back into the light and warmth. the top of the soil can be replaced with some new. now water deeply, but only once. before adding water next you have to wait until the amaryllis is showing its flower spike. otherwise the plant will only show leaves.

the gentle method

in october/november place the pot on a cool location at approx. 10-15 °c/50-59 °f. stop feeding and reduce watering. give only as much needed, that the leaves do not droop or start to dry up.

after eight to twelf weeks bringt it back into the warmth. start regular watering and feeding.

the genus ophiopogon is a member of the asparagaceae family and contains approx. 65 species. the native to japan and korea ophiopogon jaburan has several common names such as aztec or mondo grass, giant or white ilyturf, snake beard. it is available with green or white variegated leaves.

it can grow about 25 cm/10 inches high and shows its flowers in august/september.

ophiopogon jaburan is sometimes sold as an aquatic plant but won’t survive that long if cultivated under these conditions.

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zamioculcas zamiifolia has a lot of common names such as aroid or zz palm, zanzibar gem but is best known as the zamioculcas. the native to africa (kenya, south africa) plant is the only member of its genus wich belongs to the araceae family.

the botanical name zamioculcas is based on zamia furfuracea, a member of the (not related) zamiaceae family and means “with leaves like zamia”.

zamioculcas zamiifolia can reach 60 cm in height and grows from a rhizome. the evergreen plant is drought tolerant and suitable for sunny to shaded places.

propagation can be done by division or with leaf cuttings.

all parts of the plant are toxic. so better keep it away from children or pets.

the zamioculcas will tolerate some poor conditions – if not placed to cool or being overwatered. but if you want a beautiful and healthy plant, give it a bit of care.

zamioculcas zamiifolia care

1. lighting: from sunny to shaded
2. watering: allow to dry between the waterings
3. feeding: a half diluted water soluble fertilzer monthly
4. temperature: room temperature throughout the year
5. soil: cacti mix, well drained

lighting

the zamioculcas grows best if located from bright to light shaded with some morning or evening sun. a shaded place will be tolerated but keeps the plant even grow more slowly.

during summer it can be placed in the garden or on the balcony. but make sure that rainwater easily can flow out of the pot. sitting in water will cause rot.

watering

if placed at room temperature (20-30 °c/68-86 °f) the zamioculcas can be deep watered. what’s flowing out of the pot’s hole has to be removed after a few minutes. allow to dry before adding water next.

the aroid palm is drought tolerant and can go for a long time without watering.

feeding

a half diluted water soluble fertilizer can be given monthly in spring/summer and if placed at room temperature every six to eight weeks in fall/winter. new bought or recently repotted plants don’t need to be fed for the first six to eight weeks.

forgetting to feed from time to time will cause no harm.

temperature

zamioculcas zamiifolia is best grown at room temperature the year round and needs a winter minimum of 14 °C/57.2 °f. at this temperature range watering has to be reduced and don’t need to be feeded.

soil

a well drained soil is welcome. i’m using a mix of potting soil, seramis (lay granulate), pumice and coarse sand (1:1:1:1). a standard cacti mix can also be usued.

part of the rhizome and the roots.

zamioculcas zamiifolia can be propagated with leaf cuttings or by division of the rhizomes.

leaf cuttings

at first cut off the leaves with a sharp and clean knife. then stick them into the soil. i’m using a standard cacti mix.

put it on a bright but not sunny place with a temperature > 20 °c (68 °f). keep the soil moderately moist and allow to dry between the waterings. a fertilizer must not be given. there is no need to increase humidity.

now you have to be patient.

after six to eight weeks the zamioculcas cuttings start to produce roots and tubers. until they show leaves it may take a few months.

from zamioculcas zamiifolia is a cultivar with yellow variegated leaves available. the images below i made at botanic garden berlin.

saintpaulia is a member of the gesneriaceae family and contains approx. six members, native to africa (e. g. kenya, tanzania). because of their similarity with the true violets (viola) they are commonly known as african violets.

the most common member of the genus is saintpaulia ionantha of which a lot of cultivars are available, e. g. with variegated leaves and a wide range of blooming colors.

the african violet (saintpaulia) grows best if located on a bright place the year round. some morning, evening or winter sun will be tolerated. during the warm summer months it shouldn’t be placed directly behind the window.

a light shaded place is also welcome. for showing its colorful fooliage the variegated cultivars need to be placed in bright light. otherwise the leaves will become green.

during summer it can be placed in the garden or on the balcony. but make sure that rainwater can easily flow out of the pot. because sitting in water will cause rot.

the african violet can be grown in a regular potting or cacti mix. i’m using a mixture of potting soil, coarse sand and pumice (3:1:1).

keep it evenly moist but not wet. sitting in water can cause rot. allow to moderately dry between the waterings. but it shouldn’t dry completely.

from spring to fall a half diluted water soluble fertilzer can be given monthly and if placed at above 20 °c/68 °f in winter every eight weeks. recently repotted or new bought plants don’t need to be fed for the first six to eight weeks.

alternatively you can use time release pellets or sticks (half concentrated).

saintpaulia ionantha needs a winter minimum of approx. 12 °c/53.6 °f for the standard cultivars and 15 °c/59 °f for the variegated ones. at this temperature range, watering can be reduced and there is no need to feed. but the soil should not dry out completely.

but it does best if located warm (>20 °c/68 °f) throughout the year.

saintpaulia neverfloris only shows buds and no open flowers.

propagation

african violets can be propagated by seeds or with leaf cuttings. older plants can be divided.

leaf cuttings

at first cut off a leaf with a sharp and clean knife. the african violet cutting can be planted in a regular potting soil or a mix between humus and sand (3:1). the ending of the leave should sit on the ground.

put it on a bright but not sunny place with a temperature > 20 °c (68 °f). keep the soil moist but not wet. a fertilizer must not be given. there is no need to increase humidity.

after six to eight weeks the african violet cutting will show first new leaves. after about six months you can treat it like the mother plant.

how to grow african violets from seeds

growing african violets (saintpaulia) from seeds isn’t difficult – if you get some. i found mine on ebay.

you can use a regular potting or cacti mix. place the seeds just on the soil. to increase humidity put a glas or a freezing bag over the pot. don’t forget to air daily. give the pot to a bright location without direct sun. temperature should be above 20 °c/68 °c. keep the soil moist but not wet.

the seeds need 14 to 31 days to germinate (at 25 °c/77 °f). if the seedlings are approx. 3 cm/1.18 inches tall you can start adapting them to your room climate by extending the airing time daily. when they have reached a hight of about 5 cm/1.97 inches they can be divided an re-potted.

the genus aspidistra belongs to the ruscaceae family and contains approx. 80 members, all native to east asia. they are commonly known as cast iron plants. there are also some cultivars, with white/creamish stripped or dotted leaves available. find more info about these plants here: aspidistra care.

aspidistra elatior

the genus ornithogalum is a member of the scilloideae subfamily within the asparagaceae (formerly cyacinthaceae) and contains approx. 210 members. the sun star (ornithogalum dubium) is native to south africa and available flowering in orange or yellow. ornithogalum dubium care –>

the genus primula belongs to the primulaceae family and contains more than 400 species. primula obconia is commonly known as the poison or german primrose and is available in a wide range of blooming colors. all plant parts are containing the allergen primin, which can cause skin irritation.

poison primrose (primula obconica) care

the poison primrose (primula obconica) is suitable for bright to light shaded places but has to be protected from afternoon sun. a little bit of morning or evening sun will be tolerated, but too much sunlight can burn its leaves.

a regular potting mix can be used. keep it evenly moist but not wet. sitting in water can cause rot. the drying of the soil’s surface between the waterings is ok. but it shouldn’t dry out in complete.

in spring/summer a half diluted water soluble fertilzer can be given monthly and if placed at >20 °c/68 °f in fall/winter every six to eight weeks. new bought or recently repotted plants don’t need to be fed for the first six to eight weeks.

the poison primrose can either be cultivated at room temperature the year round or be placed at approx. 10-15 °c/50-59 °f during winter. at this temperature range, watering can be reduced and there is no need to feed. but the soil should not dry out completely. a somewhat cooler winter location can have a positive impact on blooming in spring.

propagation

the poison primrose (primula obconica) can be grown from seeds.

the genus episcia belongs to the gesneriaceae family and contains approx. eight members, native to central and south america. they are commonly known as flame violets and are related to the african violet. there are a lot of episcia cupreata cultivars available with red or silver patterned leaves, flowering in orange, red or pink. mature plants are producing runners. they are suitable for hanging baskets.

episcia cupreata – flame violet care

the flame violet does best if located bright but protected from afternoon sun. a bit of morning/evening sun or a light shaded place will be tolerated.

it can be cultivated in a regular potting soil or a special mix for african violets. i’m using a mixture of potting soil, coarse sand and grit (3:1:1).

keep it evenly moist but not wet. sitting in water can cause rot. the drying of the soil’s surface between the waterings is ok. but it shouldn’t dry completely.

in spring/summer a half diluted water soluble fertilzer can be given monthly and if placed at >20 °c/68 °f in fall/winter every six to eight weeks. new bought or recently repotted plants don’t need to be fed for the first six to eight weeks.

episcia cupreata likes it warm the year round and needs a winter minimum of approx. 15 °c/59 °f. at this temperature range, watering can be reduced and there is no need to feed. but the soil should not dry out completely. a somewhat cooler winter location can have a positive impact on blooming in spring.

propagation

episcia cupreata can be grown from seeds, stem or leaf cuttings. the procedure is the same as for the african violet.

euphorbia horrida is native to south africa and commonly known as african milk barrel. it’s a somewhat variable plant with many varieties and forms. there are also cultivars with red spines and flowers available.

euphorbia horrida – african milk barrel care

this description is based on my experiences with euphorbia horrida var. striata. the cultivation of other forms or varieties can be different.

the african milk barrel does best, if grown on a bright and sunny place throughout the year. a light shaded location will be tolerated. during summer it can be placed in the garden. but make sure that rainwater can easily flow out of the pot. because sitting in water will cause rot.

it grows well in a good drained mineral potting substrate. i’m using a mix of potting soil, seramis (lay granulate), pumice and coarse sand (1:1:1:1).

from spring to fall euphorbia horrida var. striata can be deep watered. what’s flowing out of the pot’s hole must be removed after a few minutes. before adding water next allow to dry.

in spring and summer a half diluted cactus fertilizer can be given monthly. during fall/winter there is no need to feed.

euphorbia horrida var. striata can be cultivated at room temperature the year round and needs a winter minimum of 10 °C/50 °f. the colder it is placed during this season, the less water is needed.

euphorbia horrida propagation

euphorbia horrida can be grown from seeds or cuttings.

crassula ausensis belongs to the crassulaceae family and is native to namibia. there are different forms of this plant available. in good sunlight the knobby leaves of subspecies titanopsis form red tips.

crassula ausensis care

crassula ausensis does best if located bright and sunny the year round. a light shaded place will be tolerated. during summer it can be grown in the garden. but make sure that rainwater can easily flow out of the pot.

this succulent likes a well drained soil. a regular cactus mix can be used. i’m using a mixture of potting soil, coarse sand and pumice (2:1:1).

from spring to fall crassula ausensis can be deep watered. what’s flowing into the saucer must be removed after a few minutes. wet legs can cause rotten roots. before adding water next allow to dry.

a half diluted cactus fertilizer can be given monthly in spring/summer and if placed at room temperature every six to eight weeks in fall/winter. new bought or recently repotted plants don’t need to be fed for the first six to eight weeks.

for showing its inflorescence in spring, a cold winter location may be helpful. crassula ausensis can be placed at 5-10 °c (41-50 °f). at this temperature range it has to be kept nearly dry and don’t need to be fed. if placed at room temperature during winter, give as much light as you can.

propagation

crassula ausensis can be grown from seeds or cuttings.